
Wil 



lii is 



mttika 







*-'°^ 11 fiT''* 



<:_4:p-, i 



J. M, THORBURN & CO. 



1 '\ 



i\ 









.i^-''- 



• "■■ '3-.V > ■,!*-vi=-T3<: 



THE SEEDING AND 
PRESERVATION 
OF GOLF LINKS 



BY: 



J. M. THORBURN & CO. 




NEW YORK 

J. M. THORBURN & CO. 

33 Barclay Street 






^^\^ 



|LiBRARY of doNeREsi] 

MAft 16 S908 
j! 2 o X Lo-o 

COPY B. 



Copyright, 1908 
By J. M. THOEBUEN & CO. 




Introduction 



'HE preparation of the following pages 
was suggested by the frequent ap- 
plications received from golf clubs 
for information as to the seeding of 
their grounds. Their aim is to 
answer the questions that present 
themselves to greens committees in connection 
with the formation of new courses, and the main- 
tenance of established ones. These questions are 
assuming greater importance every year, the con- 
stantly improving condition of the older and 
more favorably situated links raising the stan- 
dard of what a course ought to be, and the prac- 
tice of intervisiting keeping that standard con- 
stantly in view. Every club is anxious to have for 
visiting players, especially during the open tour- 
naments, as fine a course as they are accustomed 
to, and every chairman of greens committee feels 
the spur of criticisms made by members of his own 
club on their return from visiting a better course, 
so that the ideal links will always be, for most 
clubs, only an aspiration ; and it is easier to point 
out the inevitableness of this state of tilings than 
to provide a cure for it. The only approach 
to a remedy, indeed, in our varied and trying 



SEEDING AND PRESERVATION 

climate, is constant care and attention, intelli- 
gently directed. 

These incentives to the improvement of the 
grounds have assured the future of golf in 
America, and those gentlemen who have assumed 
the burdens of the work have done more for the 
cause of the game than they are generally credited 
with. For to the majority of its votaries the 
charm of golf will always include the freshness 
of the country air, and the exhilaration of walking 
on a green elastic turf, untiring to the foot and 
pleasing to the eye. 



Important 1 

Too much stress cannot be laid on the import- 
ance of securing the best seed. 

It must be remembered that there are many 
grades of the various sorts offered for sale. The 
best is none too good. 

We have for many years made a specialty of 
grass seed, and we import and deal in the highest 
grades only, so that those who entrust their orders 
to us can have the assurance that they will re- 
ceive the very best the market affords. 



Turf 'forming Grasses 



THE first condition of success in securing a 
good golf course is a due recognition of 
the relation between soil, situation and 
climate on the one hand, and the different varie- 
ties of grasses on the other. As every grass has 
its own peculiar habit and habitat, the whole in- 
quiry resolves itself into two questions : Firsts 
what varieties are suitable for golf links; and, 
second, which of these are, at the same time, 
adapted to the peculiar soil and situation under 
consideration! 

The first question is easily disposed of, as it 
is obvious that all turf -forming varieties are 
suitable, without regard to their particular shade 
of color or fineness of texture. These niceties 
will be considered separately in connection with 
the putting-greens. ^^ Bunch grasses,'' that is, 
grasses that grow, like Orchard Grass, in tussocks 
or detached bunches, are excluded, and only those 
of a prostrate habit of growth, or with creeping, 
interlacing roots, are admissible. The following 
list includes all the distinctive and longest lasting 
of these, and the answer to the second question is 
supplied by our account of the conditions under 
which they thrive. 



SEEDING AND PRESERVATION 

AGROSTIS CANINA (Rhode Island Bent Grass). Re- 
sembles Red Top (A. rulfjaris, described below), but is of 
dwarfer habit, with shorter and narrower leaves. It makes 
a beautiful, close, fine turf, and is one of the very best 
grasses for lawns. It adapts itself to almost any soil, rich 
and moist, or dry, sandy and sterile. It is a native of 
Europe, but has been cultivated in our Eastern States for 
many years, being valuable for permanent pastures. The 
meadows, however, from which it has been saved here have 
of late run largely into the freer seeding Red Top, so that 
we now import it from Europe, where it has been more 
carefully cultivated. Fifty to 60 pounds of seed to the acre 
is recommended for lawns. 

AGROSTIS STOLONIFERA (Creeping Bent, or Florin). 
The distinctive feature of this species is, as the name implies, 
its compact, creeping, rooting stems. It prefers low bottom 
lands, especially if they are somewhat sandy. It is of rapid 
growth and spreading habit, and the stoloniferous roots 
form a strong, enduring turf, that is positively impro\ed 
by constant trampling. Being of fine texture, it is one of 
the most valuable of our lawn grasses. If sown alone, 
50 pounds to the acre should be used. 

AGROSTIS VULGARIS (Red Top; Herd's Grass). A 
very hardy native perennial grass, succeeding best on 
moist land. It accommodates itself to a variety of soils, 
however, even to quite dry situations, and stands our hot 
climate admirably. It is, perhaps, the most permanent grass 
we have, and it enters largely into the composition of our 
best natural pastures. It remains green for the greater 
part of the year, and its long, trailing stems form a vei'y 
close, matting turf, that is not affected by trampling. It 
grows well as far south as Tennessee. Of the absolutely 
clean or "fancy" seed, 30 pounds to the acre is sufficient. 

ALOPECURUS PRATENSIS (Meadow Foxtail). One of 
the best permanent pasture-grasses for rich, moist lands. 
Its chief characteristics for our purpose are its extreme 





OF GOLF LINKS 

earliness and its faculty of standing high summer heats 
without burning. Although it prefers moist, low grounds, 
it accepts drier situations, and makes an earlier spring 
verdure than any other variety. It should be sown only 
in connection with other grasses, 4 or 5 pounds to the acre. 

CYNODON DACTYLON (Bermuda Grass). Decidedly 
the most valuable grass for southern golf links. It is of 
dwarf habit, with long creeping stems, rooting at the joints 
and covering the ground with a matting of fine turf, which 
no amount of trampling will impair. As it cannot endure 
frost, it is of no value north of Virginia. It thrives in the 
poorest and sandiest soil, and resists extreme drought and 
the most intense tropical heat. It should be sown at the 
rate of 20 pounds to the acre. 

CYNOSURUS CRISTATUS (Crested Dog's tail). A sto- 
loniferous perennial forming a smooth, compact and lasting 
turf. It thrives best on rich, moist land, but it can accom- 
modate itself to almost any soil. Its roots penetrate deeply 
into the ground, which enables it to stand severe droughts. 
It is, on this account, valuable for hilly situations. The tex- 
ture of its turf is well adapted for putting-greens. If sown 
alone, 40 pounds to the acre is none too much, but it is 
recommended only in mixture with other sorts. 

FESTUCA DURIUSCULA (Hard Fescue). This is really 
a "bunch grass" and not a creeping-rooted species, but it 
may be recommended in mixture for high, dry, sandy soils, 
where most other grasses would not grow. It thrives in 
such soils, and can endure long periods of drought and 
extreme summer heat. Forty pounds to the acre. 

FESTUCA RUBRA (Red Fescue). A creeping-rooted 
species, forming a close and lasting turf, and specially 
adapted for dry, sandy soils. It resists extreme drought, 
and thrives on very inferior soils, gravelly banks and ex- 
posed hillsides. It is also valuable for binding shifting 
sands on the sea-shore. As a lawn grass, its chief merit is 



SEEDING AND PRESERVATION 

for positions too shaded for better sorts. Thirty pounds 
to the acre. 

FESTUCA TENUIFOLIA (Slender Fescue). This is 
really a variety of Festuca ovinu, and not a turf-forming 
species. It will grow on very dry and inferior soil, how- 
ever, and its dwarf habit of growth and fineness of leaf 
render it not unsuitable for such situations in fair-greens. 
It is one of the finest leaved grasses we have. Forty pounds 
to the acre. 

LOLIUM PERENNE (Perennial Rye Grass). Although 
called a perennial, it seldom lasts more than three or four 
years. It is the most valuable grass of Great Britain, both 
for pastures and for meadows, occupying there the same 
relative position of importance that Timothy holds here. 
The cool, moist climate of England seems to suit it best, 
yet it succeeds very well in our Middle and Eastern States, 
and adapts itself to a great diversity of soils. The seed is 
large and heavy, and produces a strong, verdant growth in 
four or five weeks after sowing. There are several varieties 
of the Perennial Rye Grass. That known as "Pacey's" is 
of very vigorous growth, and of a more bushy and leafy 
habit than the type. It is excellent in mixtures for strength- 
ening and enlivening the turf of fair-greens. Sixty pounds 
to the acre. 

LOLIUM ITALICUM (Italian Rye Grass). Though last- 
ing two or three years under very favorable circumstances, 
it is practically an annual. Like the Perennial Rye Grass, 
it is a remarkably rapid grower, and has, in addition, the 
advantage of standing extremes of temperature, remaining 
green throughout the winter, and retaining its freshness in 
the hottest summer months and during prolonged droughts. 
When sown very thickly, or in mixture with other sorts, it 
makes a good, dense turf, and it has been used with much 
satisfaction on lawns as far south as Jacksonville. On rich, 
moist soils it is exceedingly productive, and it also does 

8 



OF GOLF LINKS 

fairly well in less favored situations. Fifty pounds to the 
acre. 

POA COMPRESSA (Canada Blue Grass). A very hardy 
perennial grass, with creeping root-stocks, forming a close 
and durable turf of fine texture. It grows on the poorest 
and driest soils, sandy, gravelly or clayey, standing extremes 
of wetness or drought, and keeping green till the severe 
frosts of winter. It is distinguished from the Kentucky 
Blue Grass by its flattened, wiry stems and by its decidedly 
bluer color. Sixty to 70 pounds to the acre. 

POA NEMORALIS (Wood Meadow Grass). The chief 
characteristic of this grass is its special fitness for shaded 
positions in lawns and woodland parks, where other grasses 
will not grow. It is very permanent and hardy, resisting 
extremes of heat and cold, and is one of the first grasses to 
show a rich green growth in the spring. The creeping 
roots are formed underground, and make a good turf. 
Thirty pounds to the acre. 

POA PRATENSIS (Kentucky Blue Grass; June Grass). 
One of our most widely distributed and valuable native 
grasses. It combines more points of excellence than any 
other sort. It is a true perennial, lasting indefinitely and 
improving every year. Its densely creeping root-stocks, 
spreading habit, and smooth, even growth, fine texture and 
rich green color render it one of the very best grasses for 
golf links. It forms a close turf, starts very early in the 
spring, and lasts till frost. It succeeds in almost any soil, 
dry, rocky, sandy or gravelly, and stands long-continued 
dry weather and hot suns. It takes, however, two or three 
years to become well established and should, therefore, be 
sown only in connection with other grasses. If the soil is 
specially suitable it will eventually crowd these out, and 
make the finest possible sward. Forty-five pounds to the 
acre. 



9 



SEEDING AND PRESERVATION 

POA TRIVIALIS (Rough-stalked Meadow Grass). A 
spreading, thickly matting, stoloniferous-rooted species, 
forming a fine turf, and well adapted for the more shaded 
portions of lawns. It thrives on rich, moist soil, and in 
sheltered situations, but does not do well on dry land. 
Twenty pounds to the acre. 

WHITE CLOVER (TrifoUum repens). Some White Clover 
is usually included in lawn grass mixtures. It is of dwarf 
habit, the stems creeping and rooting at the joints. It 
spreads rapidly, and is very hardy, resisting extremes of 
heat and cold, dryness and humidity, and accommodating 
itself to all kinds of soils. The seed should be sown in the 
spring — not more than two pounds to the acre. 



The Theory of Grass Seed 
Mixtures 

The above list comprises all grasses suitable 
for golf courses. Their different characteristics 
at once suggest the propriety of selecting par- 
ticular sorts to meet particular conditions of soil, 
situation and climate. It does not follow, how- 
ever, that the best results are always obtained by 
sowing any one variety, for it is a well-ascer- 
tained fact, fully recognized by all successful agri- 
culturists, that a thicker and more prolonged 
growth is produced by a mixture of several sorts 
than by only one or two, and that a combination 
of grasses may thrive on a piece of ground on 

10 



OF GOLF LINKS 

which any one of them would succeed indiffer- 
ently. Our present concern is not with the ex- 
planation of this fact, but with its significance. 
It is obvious that a mixture of various sorts 
simplifies the task of selecting the grass to sow, 
and minimizes the risk of failure. For out of 
many varieties there will always be some to suc- 
ceed, even if others should fail. This is a very 
important consideration in a climate like ours,, 
where, on certain soils, prolonged droughts and 
hot weather might completely burn up a turf com- 
posed of one species. In a mixed turf the several 
sorts are mutually helpful in such a case, the very 
decay of some of them serving as a mulch and 
protection to the others. But apart from these 
contingencies, mixtures have a peculiar fitness for 
golf grounds, in that they insure an abundance of 
verdure for the greater part of the year, some- 
being at their best very early in the spring and 
others not till late in the fall. 

It is true that there are individual species, like 
Kentucky Blue Grass, that start very early in the 
spring and maintain a vigorous growth till winter 
sets in. They do this, however, only after they 
have become well established in soils that are 
eminently suited to them; and when the condi- 
tions are specially suited to a particular species 
all others will be crowded out in a few years, any- 
way. Here, as elsewhere, the struggle for exist- 
ence results in the survival of the fittest. 

For practical purposes, then, it is sufficient to» 
consider the general character of the ground to 

11 



SEEDING AND PRESERVATION 

be seeded, whether high and dry, low and wet, or 
a good soil between the two. A mixture of five 
or six of the above-described grasses, preferring 
corresponding conditions, is sure to give satis- 
factory results. 



i> 



Formation of Putting-greens 



THE preceding chapter is intended to apply to 
the seeding of the fair-greens or grounds 
in general, where the grasses must, from 
the nature of the case, be chosen to suit the 
ground. But for the putting-greens the ground 
may be made to suit the grasses. Their limited 
area makes this possible, and the fact that only 
a few grasses will give the required quality of 
sod and fineness of texture makes it necessary. 
Eighteen greens, each 100 feet square, cover 
only four acres of ground, — a space which can 
easily be given sufficient care and attention to 
produce a perfect and permanent turf. The 
unsatisfactory condition of many of our putting- 
greens is due neither to the climate nor to neg- 
lect, but to the initial mistake of sowing unsuitable 
grasses on imperfectly prepared soil. In their 
eagerness to begin play, new clubs often plan 
their putting-greens on the best parts of the 
existing turf. It may safely be asserted that no 
amount of care or patching will ever convert these 
spaces into good greens. Another common 
method is sodding with transplanted turf. This 
may be done with success, when good turf of pure 
Kentucky Blue Grass or of the bent grasses can 

13 



SEEDING AND PRESERVATION 

be obtained. Turf of this description is not 
uncommon in the old pastures of our middle and 
eastern states. We say old, because the grasses 
mentioned are those that would naturally be in 
possession after a number of years, all others 
being crowded out by them. Where the matter of 
expense is unimportant and such turf available, 
some time may be saved and fairly good results 
secured by sodding. Those who adopt this plan 
must observe carefully the following necessary 
conditions of success: The soil must be deeply 
dug and a liberal supply of barnyard manure or 
other fertilizer worked into it. The surface should 
be soft and finely pulverized, and the sod pressed 
down as firmly as possible upon it. The heaviest 
roller will not press it too firmly. A covering of 
lialf an inch of fine soil, through which the grass 
■will quickly grow, will prevent the turf from dry- 
ing out. 

As a rule, putting-greens formed either by 
patching the existing turf or by sodding with 
transplanted turf, are only make-shifts, although 
under the conditions above mentioned the latter 
.plan has been known to give good satisfaction. 
The simplest and surest plan is to make the 
greens by seeding with grasses peculiarly adapted 
for the purpose. 

The first and most important step is to pre- 
pare the ground thoroughly. Trenching to the 
depth of two feet will insure proper drainage, 
and enable the grasses to penetrate deeply into 
ihe soil. The deeper and freer the root-growth 

14 



OF GOLF LINKS 

the more able will they be to withstand summer 
droughts and severe winters. If the work can be 
begun in the fall, so much the better. In trench- 
ing, the soil should be thoroughly pulverized, and 
an abundant quantity of well-rotted stable manure 
worked into it. The following spring a dressing 
of ground-bone and chemical fertilizer should be 
applied, the soil again turned over, the surface 
finely pulverized by raking and rolling, and lev- 
elled to a perfect grade. 

Eeferring now to the list of turf-forming 
grasses given in a former chapter, we observe that 
the first two species of Agrostis; viz., Ehode Island 
Bent Grass and Creeping Bent Grass, and Cynos- 
rus cristatus, are suitable for forming the quality 
of turf required on a putting-green. Their low, 
creeping, densely matting habit, fine, yet not too 
fine, foliage, their great permanence, and their 
peculiar quality of improving the more they are 
tramped upon, all suggest special fitness for this 
purpose. A mixture of these sorts should be sown, 
the greater proportion being Creeping Bent on 
low, moist soils, and Ehode Island Bent on high, 
dry land. (In the states south of Virginia Ber- 
muda Grass should be used.) In this section these 
grasses, sown during the latter part of March, on 
soil so prepared, will produce a turf fit for play 
by September, and one which will keep on im- 
proving indefinitely. If the seed is sown on the 
newly raked surface, it need not be covered. The 
ground must be rolled, however, to press the seed 
into the earth and to give the final smoothing to 

15 



SEEDING AND PRESERVATION 

the surface. In sowing, care mnst be taken to dis- 
tribute the seed evenly, and not in patches. A 
very liberal quantity is recommended of the bent 
grasses, — say 25 pounds of clean seed to each 
green of 100 feet square. 



16 



Time of Sowing 



THE proper time to sow grass seed depends, 
of course, upon the latitude. In the cen- 
tral and eastern states from the middle of 
March to the middle of May (and frequently to 
middle June, according to season) is the best time. 
If sown later, the grasses may not be strong enough 
to stand the hot, dry summer months. Seed may 
also be sown in the fall, provided it is done early 
enough to secure a good, strong growth before 
winter sets it. If the young plants are not well- 
rooted, they are liable to be killed by frost or 
thrown out of the ground by the action of alter- 
nate freezing and thawing. That is the objection 
to late fall sowing. The advantage of it is that, 
if the grass comes safely through the winter, it 
has a good start in the spring. The sowing should 
be done when the ground is moist, or before an 
expected rain, and a subsequent rolling is always 
advisable, in order to press the seed into the soil. 
Seed for the putting-greens should be kept always 
on hand, and before every rain in summer it 
should be sown on any thin or burnt-out spots 
that may appear. 



17 



Weeds 



DEAN HERBERT said that ^'plants do not 
grow where they like best, but where other 
plants will let them.'' The remark is 
peculiarly applicable to weeds — of all kinds. They 
are most in evidence the first season, before the 
grass has become well established, occupying 
every thin or bare spot. But once a close turf has 
been formed, they will cause little trouble. The 
only way to get rid of them is to sow enough grass 
seed to crowd them out and prevent the introduc- 
tion of others. With a few exceptions they are all 
annuals, dying at the approach of winter. Let the 
spots occupied by them be scarified in the spring 
with a steel rake, or harrowed, if the area is large ; 
then apply some chemical fertilizer and sow grass 
seed. The weeds will not appear in these spots 
again. The perennials, however, such as dande- 
lions, docks and plantains, are not so easily dis- 
posed of. These must be pulled out by the root 
and grass seed sown in their places. Most weeds 
are easily kept down by the lawn-mower, and, ex- 
cept by their unsightliness, cause little trouble to 
golfers. One important exception deserves par- 
ticular notice. Its scientific name is Panicum san- 
guinale, but it is best known and least esteemed 

18 



OF GOLF LINKS 

as ^^crab grass'' and ''summer grass." It lies 
low before the mower and springs up elastic be- 
hind it, — refusing to be cut. It is a most aggres- 
sive expansionist, seizing upon any spot that 
offers it standing room, and crowding out every- 
thing that cannot resist it. It is most conspicuous 
and unsightly in the early fall, when it turns 
brown. By the end of autumn it is dead. It leaves, 
however, much seed of very great vitality which 
will come up again the following year and crowd 
out the finer grasses. If in the fall it is found 
that this grass exists it is important that the 
plants of it be at once cut out, so that they may not 
seed. If fertilizer is then applied and grass seed 
thickly sown, the space may be saved from next 
year's invasion of this pest. There is no other 
remedy. Crab grass grows wherever other grasses 
will let it, and nowhere else. 



19 



Earthworms 

THE genius of Charles Darwin was devoted to 
a long and exhaustive study of the action 
of earthworms, and his experiments proved 
conclusively that their borings and castings have 
a very beneficial influence on grass lands. He 
estimated that over ten tons of dry earth per 
acre are passed through their bodies annually, 
undergoing, in the process, a grinding that greatly 
improves its quality as soil. While we recognize 
the annoyance caused by worm-casts on putting- 
greens, we hesitate to suggest any means of de- 
stroying these useful creatures. It is, of course, 
impracticable to do so over a large area, but on 
grounds where they are particularly troublesome 
the selection of fertilizers might be made with a 
view to keeping them under. The alkaline effect 
of wood-ashes is very irritating to them, and they 
cannot stand quick-lime. On putting-greens 
earthworms might be destroyed by saturating the 
ground with a kerosene wash, or ground charcoal 
might be spread over the greens in the spring ; but, 
even there, it is probably as well to put up with 
their operations and to minimize the trouble they 
cause by brushing their castings off, or over, the 
greens lightly with a broom. A distinguished golfer 
recommends the following formula: Take yk oz. 
corrosive sublimate and mix with two quarts of 
water; then add 40 or 50 gallons of water and 
sprinkle the ground, using an ordinary watering- 
pot. 

20 



Fertilizers 



THE essential elements of fertilizer for grass 
lands are nitrogen, phosphoric acid and 
potash, because these are the chemical 
elements which the grasses in growing appro- 
priate in largest quantity, and which are present 
in the soil in smallest proportion. All the com- 
mon manures and commercial fertilizers contain 
these elements in greater or smaller quantity, and 
are valuable proportionately, so that it really does 
not matter what kind of fertilizer is used, pro- 
vided these necessary elements are rendered avail- 
able as food for the plants. The matter of avail- 
ability is very important, for it is obvious that the 
fertilizing constituents are useless unless they are 
in a form in which they can be assimilated by the 
plants. This fact suggests the propriety of using 
particular forms of manure or fertilizer, accord- 
ing to the conditions of the soil and the manner 
of application. 

STABLE MANURE. This is decidedly the best and most 
economical form of fertilizer to use in the initial prepara- 
tion of the ground for permanent grass lands. A too liberal 
quantity can hardly be applied. A very heavy dressing, 
plowed in in the fall, and another dressing cross-plowed in 
the following spring are recommended. This manure con- 



21 



SEEDING AND PRESERVATION 

tains all the "essential manurial elements," but in a form 
more or less insoluble. They become available slowly and 
continuously, as the manure decays. Besides being one of 
the best direct fertilizers, this form of manure has a most 
valuable mechanical effect in improving the condition of the 
soil — the vegetable matter in it making stiff, clayey lands 
more porous and a too light soil more compact. But, 
although there is nothing better for plowing under, it is by 
no means as economical when used as a top-dressing. For 
when so applied the mechanical effect above mentioned is 
only slightly exercised, and much of the fertilizing proper- 
ties is lost by the long exposure to the atmosphere. These 
considerations, and the extra labor involved in spreading in 
the fall and removing the coarse vegetable parts remaining 
in the spring, make the natural manure less desirable for 
surface application than some of the other forms of fertil- 
izer. Its liability to contain weed seeds is still another 
objection to stable manure for top-dressing. 

GROUND BONE. As a fertilizer for grass lands, ground 
bone comes next in importance to barnyard manure. In the 
preparation of the ground, a liberal quantity of the coarser 
grade should be well worked into the soil, where it decom- 
poses slowly, furnishing a continuous supply of nitrogen 
and phosphoric acid. For top-dressing, the finer grade, 
known as "bone meal" or "bone flour," should be used. 
There is nothing better than an early spring dressing of 
this at the rate of half a ton to the acre. On putting- 
greens it might be supplemented by nitrate of soda, at the 
rate of 300 pounds to the acre, because the nitrogen in 
the bone is somewhat slow to become available. 

CHEIVnCALi FERTILIZER. A high-grade complete 
chemical fertilizer is probably the surest and most effective 
spring top-dressing for grass. It contains all the essential 
elements in a highly concentrated and quickly available 
form. Half a ton to the acre is sufficient on an ordinary 
soil. To ensure even distribution, it should be mixed with 
equal bulk of dry earth. Such a fertilizer is also excellent 

22 



OF GOLF LINKS 

for working into the soil when making putting-greens. 
Chemical fertilizer should be bought guaranteed or subject 
to analysis. 

SHEEP MANURE. In the pulverized form in which it is 
usually sold, this manure makes an excellent top-dressing. 
It may be applied either in the fall or early spring, at the 
rate of three or four tons to the acre. It contains nearly 
twice as much solid matter as horse manure, and is very 
rich in phosphoric acid, nitrogen and potash. It also adds 
humus to the soil, which chemical fertilizers do not. Mixed 
with water — 1 pound to 5 gallons — and a little muriate of 
potash added, it makes a most effective liquid fertilizer for 
putting-greens. 

WOOD ASHES. The fertilizing value of unleached wood 
ashes is due to the potash which they contain. To 
make a complete fertilizer it would be necessary to 
add some phosphoric acid and nitrogen. For this pur- 
pose 1,000 pounds bone meal and 300 pounds nitrate of 
soda to the acre would answer. Any quantity of the ashes 
may be used, — 3 to 5 tons to the acre. They have an im- 
portant mechanical effect in lightening the soil. Leached 
wood ashes contain only 1 per cent, potash and have prac- 
tically no fertilizing value. In purchasing, care should be 
taken to get pure and unleached ashes. 

NITRATE OF SODA. — In stimulating the growth of grass, 
nitrate of soda is the most quickly effective top-dressing, the 
nitrogen in this form being immediately available. It is 
extremely soluble, and penetrates deep into the soil, thus 
promoting a stronger and deeper root-growth. It is very 
valuable to promote a quick growth on new grasslands and 
should be applied preferably when the young grass is 2 or 
3 inches tall. Two or three slight dressings at intervals 
throughout the season are recommended in preference to 
one heavy application. An equal quantity of bone meal 
mixed with it would supply the requisite phosphoric acid. 
For a putting-green 100 feet square, 40 pounds of this mix- 
ture would be sufficient at a time. 



23 



Rolling and Mowing 



ROLLING. — As soon as the frost is out of 
the ground in the spring, the land should 
be gone over with a heavy roller. Winter 
frosts loosen the soil, and rolling is necessary to 
compress it again. If grass seed is to be sown, 
this should be done first and the rolling immedi- 
ately afterwards. Frequent rollings are recom- 
mended. 

Mowing. — All turf-forming grasses are im- 
proved, both in vigor of root-growth and in fine- 
ness of texture, by frequent mowings. It is im- 
possible to say just how often the grass should 
be mown, as that depends upon the rate at which 
it grows. In the spring and early summer, when 
the growth is most vigorous, three cuttings a week 
are recommended for putting-greens. Too close 
cutting should be guarded against, however, es- 
pecially during the hot summer months, when the 
roots require some top-growth to protect them 
from the burning sun. For the same reason it is 
as well not to rake off the cut grass, as it quickly 
settles about the roots and forms a valuable pro- 
tective mulch. A good top-growth is also neces- 
sary to protect the roots from severe winter 
frosts. Mowing should therefore be discontinued 
in time to let the grass grow pretty long before 
winter sets in. 



24 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



J. M. THORBURN & CO. 

Seedsmen 

33 BARCLAY STREET, NEW YORK 

(LATE OF 36 CORTLANDT STREET) 

Established 1802 



FOR over a liTindred years our house has made 
a specialty of grasses. We were probably 
the first to introduce to this country, for 
commercial distribution, the many valuable nat- 
ural and cultivated foreign species that now take 
such an important part in our agricultural econ- 
omy. The formation of permanent pastures and 
meadows has for many years been a subject of 
careful study with us, and our celebrated formulae 
for seeding grasslands have received universal 
recognition. 

We have given similar attention to lawn- 
grasses, and our thorough knowledge of the sub- 
ject enables us to prescribe the most suitable kind 
for all soils, situations and climatic conditions. 
Most of the very finest lawns from Florida to 
Canada were produced by seed prescribed and 

25 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



furnished by us. We could justify this statement 
by thousands of testimonials if space would 
permit. 

Wliat we have done for lawns and pastures 
we can do for golf links also. Our knowledge of 
grasses and their requirements is the outcome of 
close observation and long experience. Besides 
being able to give sound advice, our position as 
large wholesale dealers in grass seeds enables us 
to supply the required varieties, of the highest 
grade and at the lowest prices. We invite Greens 
Committees to consult us, either personally or by 
letter. 

Our general seed Catalogue contains a full 
descriptive list of all valuable natural and culti- 
vated grasses and clovers, both foreign and 
domestic. We shall be glad to mail it on appli- 
cation. Where large quantities are required we 
shall quote special prices, at same time submit- 
ting samples if desired. Grass seeds can only he 
bought intelligently by sample, as their value de- 
pends so much upon tveight and purity. 



The following celebrated courses were obtained 
from the use of grasses and fertilizers prescribed 
and furnished mainly by us: 



St. Andrews Golf Club 
Wee Burn Golf Club 
Apawamis Golf Club 
Nassau Country Club 
Hackensack Golf Club 
Nashville Golf Country Club. 
Essex County Country Club 
Chicago Golf Club 
Philadelphia Country Club 
Baltusrol Golf Club 
Upper Montclair Country Club 



Calumet Country Club 

Rockland County Country Club 

Geo. W. Vanderbilt's Biltmore Estate 

Allegheny Country Club 

Shinnecock Hills Golf Club 

Montclair Golf Club 

Englewood Golf Club 

Oakmont Country Club 

Buffalo Country Club 

Woodlawn Cemetery. 

Morris County Country Club 



26 



AVl'ERTISEMENTS - 

FERTILIZERS FOR LAWNS AND 
GOLF LINKS 



Thor burn's Grass Fertilizer 

Guaranteed to contain ammonia, 6 to 7 per cent; phos- 
phoric acid, all soluble, 8 to 10 per cent; actual potash, 
5 to 6 per cent; lime, sulphate of magnesia, soda, sul- 
phuric acid, etc. Specially prepared for top-dressing lawns 
and golf links, imparting to grass a rich green color and 
vigorous growth. Being very powerful, half a ton is suffi- 
cient for an acre on soil not impoverished. 

PRICE — In 167-lb. bags, per ton, $50; single bags 
of 167 lbs., $4.50. 

Pulverized Sheep Manure 
PRICE — Per 100 lbs., $2; per ton, $28. 

Unleached Hardwood Ashes 
PRICE — $22 per ton. 

Bone Fertilizers 

Pure Ground Bone Meal. This finely pulverized ground 
bone is excellent for top-dressing. It decomposes very rap- 
idly, and is more quickly effective than the coarser grade. 
100 lbs., $2; per ton, $30. 

Ground Bone No. 2. This is coarser than the above, and 
is suitable for working into the soil. It decomposes slowly, 
furnishing a continuous supply of nitrogen and phosphoric 
acid. Per 100-lb. bag, $2.25; per ton, $36. 

Nitrate of Soda 

Furnished always at market price, which fluctuates con- 
siderably. 

N. B.-On large quantities of above Fertilizers special prices will 
be quoted. 



ADVER TISEMENTS 

GRASS SEED MIXTURES 



PERENNIAL GRASSES FOR GOLF LINKS. 

For Fair We prefer to make special mixtures to suit 

the particular conditions of soil and situation. If correspondents 
will describe the nature of the land to be seeded, whether dry, 
moist or medium., and whether clayey, sandy or loamy, we shall 
recommend a suitable mixture, and quote price at same time. 

For Putting-Greens. Our finest possible mixture for putting- 
greens. Price per bushel of 24 lbs., $7. 

FOR LAA\^S. 

Thorburn's Lawn Grass Mixture. The finest possible mix- 
ture for lawns. It should be sown at the rate of 4 to 5 bushels 
to the acre. Price per bushel of 15 lbs., $3.50. 

Thorburn's Lawn-Restoring iVIixture. A mixture of grasses 

peculiarly suited to take firm hold and grow quickly on hard, 
worn-out or burned spots. The bare spots should be well scratched 
or raked up, and this seed soAvn liberally. Cover very thinly with 
earth, and then roll or press down firmly with the back of the 
spade. Some Lawn-Restoring Grass Seed should be kept always 
on hand, and before every rain during the summer some of it 
should be sown on any part that may appear thinner* than the 
rest. Price per quart-box, 30 cts. ; per bushel of 24 lbs,, $5. 

FOR MEADOAV AND PASTURE. 

We invite country gentlemen to send for our circular of formu- 
las for permanent meadows and pastures. It gives the names of 
the grasses used and the proportion of each. They are all made 
so as to be sown at the rate of 40 lbs. seed to the acre. Our 
prices, per acre, are as follows: 
PERMANENT MEADOWS— 

No. 1. For good land, neither too dry nor too wet. $6.00 per acre. 

No. 2. For high and dry land 7.00 " 

No. 3. For wet, late land 6.00 " 

PERMANENT PASTURES— 

No. 4. For good land, neither too dry nor too wet. 7.00 " 

No. 5. For high and dry land 8.00 

No. 6. For wet, late land 7.00 

Our General Catalogue gives full description and prices of all 
valuable natural and cultivated grasses and clovers. It is mailed 
free on application. 

28 



GRASS SEED MIXTUBES-Contiuued. 

THORBURN'S SPECIAL LAWN GRASS MIXTURE. 

This extra-choice mixture contains a large proportion of the finer 
and more expensive species, such as Rhode Island Bent, Crested 
Dog's-Tail, Creeping Bent, in extra-heavy samples, bringing the 
weight up to 20 pounds per bushel, and producing a turf of the 
closest and finest texture possible. Price per bus. of 20 lbs., $5. 

THORBURN'S LAWN GRASS FOR THE SOUTH. 

A mixture of grasses that stand extremes of heat and drought 
well and that are therefore peculiarly adapted for Southern lawns. 
Bus. of 20 lbs., $6. 

THORBURN'S GRASS MIXTURE FOR SHADY SPOTS ON 

LAWNS. 

A mixture of grasses that thrive in shaded situations, under 
trees, or close to walls where there is little sun. Bus. of 24 
lbs., $6. 

THORBURN'S SPECIAL LAWN GRASS MIXTURE FOR 

THE SEASHORE. 

A mixture of fine grasses peculiarly suited to seaside lawns. 
Bus. of 20 lbs., $5. 

POLO-GROUNDS MIXTURE. 

A mixture of fine-leaved and deep-rooting grasses, forming a 
strong and lasting turf that will stand hard usage. Per bushel of 
20 pounds, $3.25. 

TENNIS-COURT MIXTURE. 

A mixture of extra-fine grasses peculiarly adapted for tennis- 
courts. This mixture will make a firm, green and lasting turf of 
finest texture, that will improve with tramping. Bus. of 24 
lbs., $7. 

29 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




Coldwell Improved Horse Lawn Mower 

This well-known standard Mower has side-draft attachment, to enable the horse 
to walk on the cut grass only, and caster-rollers, which will not mark the lawn. 
Evenness of cut is assured by an adjustment which raises or lowers the two sides 
at the same time by means of a simple lever movement; the same lever serves the 
purpose of raising the knives' from the ground when driving over gravel walks or 

TO ft lis 

NET PRICES free on board New York 

25-in. cut, no shafts, $38. I 35-in. cut, complete, $78. 
30-in. cut, complete, $65. | 4.0-in. cut, complete, $95. 

Capitol Lawn Trimmer and Edjyer 

For trimming close to walls or fences. A useful labor-saving device. Price, $6 each 



Cast-iron Hand LaAvn 
Rollers 

All Sizes. See Our General Catalogue 





Cast-Iron Horse Land 
Rollers 



With either Pole, for 
two horses, or Shafts, 
for one horse. Prices 
a on application. 



SO 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



The Thorburn Century Ball 
Bearing Lawn Mower 



BALL-BEARING 

SELF-ADJUSTING, EASIEST WORKING 

LONGEST LASTING 




A 20-inch cut machine can be used with greater ease 
than a i6-inch cut old style mower. 



PRICES 

14-inch cut $8.50 18-inch cut .... 

16 " •* 9.50 20 " " .... 

4^ Special prices to Golf Clubs requiring a number of them 

31 



U0.50 
11.50 



A D VEBTISEMENTS 

Chain Roller or Golf Mower 



The Best for 
Putting- Greens 




This mower is made to meet the demand for a machine that will 
more perfectly cut borders, verges, etc., and yet retain all the other 
features necessary in a mower for general work. The great advantage 
of this mower is the substitution of a bicycle chain for the gears generally 
used in this style of mower. This reduces the friction to a minimum. 
The machine with six blades is highly recommended by most of the 
leading golf clubs in America for work on putting-greens. 

NET PRICES, free on board New York 





4 Blades 


6 Blades 




4 Blades 


6 Blades 


12-inch cut . 


. . $12 00 


$13 00 


16-inch out . 


. . $14 00 


$15 00 


14-inch cut . 


. . 13 00 


14 00 


18-inch cut . 


. . 16 00 


17 00 



HORSE BOOTS 

Made of very strong, heavy Heather, 
c losely riveted. Pr ice per s e t?of fou r, $9. 
Eeinforced"inside,with;steelfplate, per'set 
of four. $11. 




32 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Coldwell's 

Motor Lawrv Mower 
Style "D"- 




The machine weighs 2,000 pounds, and will negotiate 25 per 
cent, grades. It consumes from ^ to ^ of a gallon of gasoline per 
hour, cuts a 40-iach swath, and will do three times as much work 
in a day as any ordinary horse lawn mower. Will almost pay for 
itself in a single season. 

Price, $1,300 net, f. o. b. New York City. Terms, strictly net 
cash on delivery. 

CAN BE SEEN IN OUR WAREHOUSE 



Circular on application 



MhK 



619C>^ 



